Anita Dongre- The Flag Bearer Of Sustainable Fashion In India

The relationship between luxury and sustainability has long been seen as a contradiction. Luxury is often associated with affluence, indulgence, and exclusivity, while sustainability focuses on eco-consciousness, efficiency, and ethical behavior. However, the growing demand for sustainable fashion and consumers’ concern for the environment have started to bridge the gap between these two concepts. Many luxury brands have faced backlash from NGOs for unsustainable practices, with high-profile brands like Victoria’s Secret, Dolce & Gabbana, and Louis Vuitton coming under fire for environmental and ethical violations.

Amid this shifting landscape, Anita Dongre has emerged as a trailblazer for sustainable luxury fashion in India. With her international reputation and stores in India, New York, and Mauritius, she has championed eco-friendly practices and worked tirelessly to reduce her brand’s carbon footprint. As the first Indian designer to join the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), Dongre is leading the charge toward ethical and environmentally responsible fashion in the Indian market.

This blog will explore how Anita Dongre built her sustainable fashion empire, navigating challenges and pioneering a movement toward eco-conscious luxury in India. Her journey from a traditional Sindhi family to becoming a leading figure in global sustainable fashion is a testament to her vision, passion, and commitment to change.

Anita Dongre- The Woman & The Brand

Anita Dongre is a trailblazer in India's fashion and textile industry, known for her iconic brands like ‘AND’ and ‘GlobalDesi,’ which cater to the contemporary Indian woman. Often referred to as the ‘Queen of Prêt’ in fashion circles, she has made significant contributions with her designs. One of her standout labels, ‘Grassroot by Anita Dongre,’ is a luxury prêt brand dedicated to preserving traditional Indian crafts, including age-old techniques of dyeing, printing, and embroidery. Grassroot focuses on sustainability while offering a blend of ethnic and western wear collections.

Anita’s fashion journey began in 1983 when she started her business alongside her sister, Meena Sehra, in Khar, Mumbai. With just two sewing machines, they initially supplied locally embroidered ethnic garments to boutiques. However, the liberalization of the Indian economy in 1991 opened new doors. Anita recognized a gap in the market for stylish western wear tailored to Indian women’s tastes and heritage. In 1995, she launched ‘And Designs India Ltd’ with the brand ‘AND,’ which became an instant success among young women in Mumbai. Following this, in 2007, she introduced ‘GlobalDesi,’ a boho-chic brand that fuses Indian and Western styles, further solidifying her influence in the fashion industry.

In 2008, Kishore Biyani's Future Group made a strategic investment in AND Designs India Ltd, acquiring a significant minority stake. This capital infusion allowed Anita Dongre to expand her business further, leading to the launch of ‘Anita Dongre Bridal Couture’ in 2012 and ‘Pinkcity Fine Jewellery’ in 2013. By 2013, Future Lifestyle Fashion Ltd sold its 22.9% stake in AND Designs India Ltd to General Atlantic, a US private equity firm, for approximately US$ 20 million. In 2015, following the sale of Future Group’s stake to General Atlantic, the company rebranded itself from 'AND Designs India Ltd' to ‘House of Anita Dongre (HOAD) Pvt Ltd.’ This move consolidated its operations and brands under one corporate umbrella, including:

AND (Formal women’s western wear)

GlobalDesi (Indian fusion wear)

Anita Dongre Bridal Couture (Indian bridal, wedding, and ethnic wear)

Grassroot by Anita Dongre (Sustainable luxury fashion)

Anita Dongre Pinkcity (Fine jewelry line)

This restructuring was in line with Dongre's growth strategy and allowed for better operational efficiency through vertical integration, enabling seamless coordination across design, production, and retail.In 2019, HOAD created a new subsidiary, Ochre and Black Private Ltd, under which the mass-premium brands ‘AND’, ‘AND Girl’, ‘GlobalDesi’, and ‘GlobalDesi Girl’ were placed. The luxury brands ‘Anita Dongre Bridal Couture’, ‘Grassroot by Anita Dongre’, and ‘Anita Dongre Pinkcity’ remained under HOAD. This separation allowed the company to effectively target different market segments, with mass-premium brands contributing 80–82% of sales, while luxury brands accounted for the remaining 18%.

House of Anita Dongre- Brand Portfolio

1. AND

AND is a mass-premium women’s western wear brand founded by Anita Dongre, designed to cater to modern, fashion-conscious women who seek stylish yet formal workwear. Known for its sleek cuts and contemporary silhouettes, AND combines comfort with sophistication, offering a range of clothing that fits seamlessly into a busy professional's wardrobe. The brand’s collections reflect the elegance of western fashion while maintaining a touch of Indian sensibilities, making it a popular choice for urban women looking for versatile outfits that can transition from day to night effortlessly.

2. AND Girl

A youth-focused extension of the AND brand, AND Girl is crafted specifically for young girls and teenagers who are beginning to explore their sense of style. With fun, playful designs, AND Girl offers vibrant western wear that blends trendy fashion with comfort, allowing younger girls to express themselves confidently. The brand’s collections feature lively colors, chic patterns, and fresh styles that appeal to a younger audience while maintaining the quality and finesse associated with AND.

3. GlobalDesi

GlobalDesi embodies the spirit of Indian fusion wear, bringing together ethnic elements with a boho-chic flair. With bold prints, rich textiles, and eclectic designs, GlobalDesi is for the free-spirited, confident woman who enjoys mixing traditional Indian motifs with modern fashion sensibilities. The brand's collections feature a diverse range of clothing, including kurtas, skirts, dresses, and accessories, all of which reflect a colorful, contemporary take on India's rich textile heritage. GlobalDesi is perfect for those who embrace both culture and style in their everyday wear.

4. GlobalDesi Girl

A sub-brand of GlobalDesi, GlobalDesi Girl is designed for the younger generation of fashionistas who love vibrant, youthful fashion that bridges the gap between Indian heritage and global trends. Offering playful, fun, and boho-inspired clothing, GlobalDesi Girl delivers colorful, unique designs that allow girls to celebrate their personal style while staying connected to Indian traditions. With its trendy, comfortable outfits, the brand encourages creativity and self-expression among its young customers.

5. Anita Dongre Bridal Couture

Anita Dongre Bridal Couture is the epitome of luxury bridal fashion in India, offering exquisite collections for weddings and grand occasions. Specializing in handcrafted lehengas, sarees, and sherwanis, this couture line blends traditional Indian craftsmanship with contemporary elegance. Known for intricate embroidery, opulent fabrics, and attention to detail, the brand offers brides and grooms timeless pieces that celebrate India's rich cultural heritage. With Anita Dongre’s signature design philosophy, the Bridal Couture line is the go-to destination for couples seeking classic yet modern wedding attire.

6. Grassroot by Anita Dongre

Grassroot by Anita Dongre is a sustainable luxury fashion brand that champions eco-friendly practices and ethical fashion. Focused on preserving traditional Indian crafts, Grassroot collaborates with artisans across the country to create handcrafted, environmentally responsible clothing. The brand emphasizes slow fashion, using organic fabrics, sustainable dyeing techniques, and fair trade principles to produce timeless collections that reflect both luxury and sustainability. Grassroot’s ethos is built on creating a positive impact on the environment and communities while delivering high-end fashion to conscious consumers.

7. Anita Dongre Pinkcity

Anita Dongre Pinkcity is a fine jewelry line inspired by India’s regal heritage, offering intricately designed jewelry pieces that complement bridal and festive wear. The brand combines traditional techniques like jadau and meenakari with contemporary designs to create timeless jewelry that exudes luxury. Each piece, whether a necklace, bracelet, or earrings, is a work of art, embodying the elegance of Indian royalty with a modern touch. Anita Dongre Pinkcity is for the discerning customer who seeks statement jewelry that is as sophisticated as it is culturally rich.

Grassroot By Anita Dongre

Grassroot by Anita Dongre is a contemporary luxury prêt brand that blends traditional Indian craftsmanship with modern, sustainable fashion. As Anita Dongre herself describes it, Grassroot is "an exploration of traditional crafts and an expression of contemporary lifestyle—stylish, functional, yet rooted in authenticity." The brand focuses on both the environmental and social dimensions of sustainability by promoting fair trade and supporting heritage Indian crafts. A portion of the brand’s profits is shared with the local artisans who create these crafts, aligning with the United Nations' Sustainable Development Goal (SDG) 8, which advocates for inclusive and sustainable economic growth, decent work, and equal opportunities for all.Grassroot embraces the principles of slow fashion, rejecting the fast-paced seasonality of the fashion industry.

Instead, they focus on creating timeless pieces that emphasize longevity, care, and environmental responsibility. Each collection is crafted based on the availability of artisan skills, and the designs are adapted to suit their expertise. This ensures that each item is uniquely crafted, with no pressure for mass production. The brand also takes steps to minimize waste, recycling leftover materials into everyday items like quilts, bags, and reusable masks. By producing only what they can comfortably sell, Grassroot maintains a sustainable production cycle without burdening artisans or the environment.

The 4 Ps of Grassroot

1. Products: Grassroot offers a diverse range of women’s ready-to-wear, blending both western and ethnic styles. Their collection includes dresses, tops, co-ord sets, kurtis, gowns, and jackets, all crafted with an emphasis on sustainability and traditional artistry.

2. Pricing: The brand targets the upper and upper-middle-income groups, with products priced between INR 10,000 and INR 35,000, reflecting its position as a luxury label.

3. Place: Grassroot has a strong retail presence in major Indian cities like New Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Hyderabad, and Chandigarh, as well as an international store in Soho, New York. The brand also has a robust online presence through Anita Dongre’s official website and luxury fashion platforms like Pernia’s Pop-Up Shop, Ogaan.com, and Aza Fashions.

4. Promotion: The brand’s promotion strategy is subtle and aligns with its luxury status. Grassroot regularly showcases its collections at prestigious fashion events such as Lakme Fashion Week and India Fashion Week, where its target clientele is present. The brand also releases seasonal collections twice a year, and these are promoted across its website and social media channels. Print advertisements in leading fashion magazines like Vogue, Elle, and Harper’s Bazaar also play a role in brand awareness. Additionally, the visibility of Anita Dongre as a celebrity designer and endorsements from notable personalities further elevate the brand's reputation.

Grassroot by Anita Dongre positions itself as a luxury prêt label that caters to the modern Indian woman who remains connected to her cultural roots. The brand distinguishes itself through its deep commitment to sustainability, slow fashion, and ethical production. By offering both western and ethnic wear, Grassroot speaks to women who appreciate the fusion of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design. The brand’s focus on eco-friendly, cruelty-free fashion further enhances its appeal to conscious consumers who value the artistry and authenticity of handcrafted luxury.

Grassroot by Anita Dongre- Sustainability Practices

1. Social Sustainability and Women Empowerment

‍Anita Dongre is dedicated to empowering rural artisans in Maharashtra, India, by establishing Community Tailoring Units in collaboration with NGOs such as Goonj, NEPRA Foundation, and SEWA (Self-Employed Women Association). These units provide professional training in garment manufacturing, creating job opportunities in villages where individuals typically migrate for better employment. This migration often leads to family separation, with men leaving for cities while women remain behind to care for children and the elderly. Currently, there are eight Community Tailoring Units, with plans to expand to 30 by 2025, aiming to combat poverty and improve the quality of life for rural women across various remote villages in India. By offering employment close to home, Grassroot helps women avoid the often harsh conditions of factory work.

‍2. Animal Welfare Initiatives

‍A passionate advocate for animal rights, Anita Dongre believes in allowing animals to live freely without suffering. Her brand supports the sterilization and rehabilitation of approximately 100 stray dogs each month and has facilitated the establishment of a veterinary clinic in Andheri, Mumbai, in partnership with the animal welfare organization World for All Animal Care and Adoptions. The brand has also adopted stray dogs from the area around its headquarters and collaborates with NGOs such as Plants and Animal Welfare (PAWS) and Bhumi Jeevadaya Samvardhan Trust to promote the welfare of both plants and animals. Additionally, Grassroot is firmly against the use of leather and fur in its products, having been recognized by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) at the Vegan Fashion Awards in 2013 for its commitment to cruelty-free fashion.

‍3. Sustainable Headquarters

‍The philosophy of sustainability extends to Grassroot's headquarters, a 100,000 sq. ft. facility inaugurated in 2015 in the serene hills of Rabale, Navi Mumbai. The building is designed to minimize energy consumption and reduce carbon footprints by maximizing natural sunlight, implementing rainwater harvesting, and ensuring proper ventilation. Approximately 67% of the wastewater generated is recycled for toilet flushing and garden irrigation. The headquarters also features an organic terrace garden where Anita Dongre grows vegetables for personal consumption.

‍4. Brand Stores and Eco-Friendly Practices

‍Most of Grassroot’s Exclusive Brand Outlets (EBOs) are equipped with energy-efficient LED lighting, and the brand is committed to responsibly recycling electronic waste.

‍5. Textile Waste Recycling

‍The artisans at the Community Tailoring Units also contribute to recycling textile waste generated during production. They transform this waste into practical items like face masks, carry bags, and godharis. Monthly, these women manage to recycle around 2,000 kg of textile waste, creating approximately 400 godharis that would otherwise end up in landfills.

‍6. Plastic Waste Management

‍In collaboration with Lucro Plastecycle Private Limited, Grassroot has implemented a comprehensive plastic waste recycling program throughout its supply chain. This initiative recycles about 500 kg of plastic waste each month, repurposing it into packing materials and reusing approximately 125,000 plastic bags.

‍7. Environmental Conservation Efforts

‍The brand participated in a tree plantation drive, planting 25,000 trees in partnership with grow-trees.com as part of a wildlife conservation initiative on Earth Day in April 2018 at Bassi Wildlife Sanctuary, Chittorgarh, Rajasthan. Furthermore, Grassroot has teamed up with Canopy NGO to ensure that its packaging and fabrics do not harm forest ecosystems.

‍8. Use of Certified Sustainable Fabrics

‍Grassroot is committed to sourcing sustainable and biodegradable fabrics for its collections. These include Bemberg, Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), and Tencel fabrics. For the Spring-Summer 2021 collection, titled "Sounds of Forest," Grassroot utilized Tencel, a biodegradable fiber derived from Eucalyptus trees, which require minimal water and no pesticides, making them suitable for cultivation on non-arable land.

‍9. Cultural Revitalization and Global Reach

‍Through its initiatives, Grassroot by Anita Dongre has generated job opportunities for women in rural areas and played a significant role in reviving heritage Indian crafts such as Ari, Antha, Ajrak, Chikankari, Dabbu, Bandhani, Kamdani, Ikkat, Chanderi, Maheshwari Phulia, Murshidabad, and Bhagalpuri handlooms. With stores in Manhattan, New York, and Mauritius, Grassroot brings the sustainable craftsmanship of Indian artisans to a global audience, showcasing the beauty and heritage of rural artisanship on an international stage.

Other Sustainable Ventures By Anita Dongre

Anita Dongre is accelerating her efforts to establish a more conscious label, launching a line of vegan accessories that signals a significant shift in her approach to fashion. While many new brands are embracing sustainability, established names like Dongre’s are redefining what it means to be sustainable in today’s fashion landscape.The introduction of vegan accessories marks a significant step in the brand's commitment to sustainability, solidifying its reputation as a socially responsible label. Initially, Dongre concentrated on creating conscious clothing, but she has since developed a renewed passion for making sustainable fashion a cornerstone of her brand's legacy.

As one of the pioneering first-generation designers, Dongre is making substantial strides in sustainable practices.The accessories market, a key revenue driver for luxury brands, has largely been overlooked by the conscious production movement. Typically, the emphasis has been on crafting high-quality, trendy products rather than improving production methods to minimize waste and resource use. However, Dongre’s new collection of plant-based bags and belts challenges this traditional approach by substituting leather with a carefully sourced plant-based fabric that has taken years to perfect. Notably, while prioritizing sustainable production, the collection does not compromise on style, showcasing that eco-friendly design can also be fashionable.